[William Clayton Journal] ...It is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly set timber and heavy brush wood. It is reported that the[y] spent 16 days in making a road through from Weber river here which is 35 miles but as the men "did not work quarter of their time" much less would have sufficed ...73 Brother Stephen Markham says a good road can soon be made down the Kanion by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some ten or fifteen rods. A number of men went to work immediately to make the road which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill, and will be sooner done.
Agreeable to President Young's instructions, Elder Pratt accompanied by George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Mathews, John Pack, O. P. Rockwell and J[esse] C. Little started on this morning on horses to seek out a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips &c. so as to preserve the seed at least.
While the brethren were cutting the road I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there was much cheered by a handsome view of the great Salt Lake laying as I should judge, from 25 to 30 miles to the west of us, and at 11 o'clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding scenery. There is an extensive, beautiful, level looking valley from here to the Lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green patches must be fertile and rich. The valley extends to the South probably 50 miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains. To the South West across the valley at about 20 to 25 miles distance is a high mountain extending from the South end of the valley to about opposite this place where it ceases abruptly leaving a pleasant view of the dark waters of the Lake. Standing on the Lake and about due west there are two mountains and far in the distance another one which I suppose is on the other side the Lake, probably from 80 to 60 miles distance. To the North West is another mountain at the base of which is a long ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt from its white and shini[n]g appearance. The Lake does not show at this distance a very extensive surface, but its dark blue shade resembling the calm sea looks very handsome. The intervening valley appears to be well supplied with streams, creeks and Lakes some of the latter are evidently salt. There is but little timber in sight anywhere, and that is mostly on the banks of creeks and streams of water which is about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this being one of the most beautiful vallies and pleasant places for a home for the Saints which could be found...In some places may be seen a grove of small fir or Cedar or Pine, and in the vallies some Cotton wood and other small timber...There is no prospect for building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor, but we can make Spanish brick...or we can build lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages. For my own part I am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the salt Lake, and if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I have no fears but the saints can live here and do well while we will do right.
When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges and blessings of the ever lasting priesthood with God for our King and father, or, dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted, our best men murdered and every good mans life continually in danger the soft whisper echos loud and reverberates back in tones of stern tho' quiet determination. Give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate with, surrounded by the saints and adieu, adieu to the Gentile world till God says return and avenge you of your enemies. If I had my family with me, oh, happy could I be for I dread nothing so much as the journey back again, and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families travelling this road are continually liable to and especially this last mountain road from Weber River it makes me almost shudder to think of it and I could almost envy those who have got safe through, having their families with them, yet they will doubtless have a hard time of it the coming winter . . . Many signs of Deer antelope and Bears but not many have been seen here. There have been fresh Buffalo signs seen a few days travel back, but those animals evidently stay out in this region unless some come to winter. The ground seems literally alive with the very large black crickets crawling round, up grass and bushes. They look loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would feed on them voraciously. The bears evidently live mostly on them at this season of the year...We are now 5 1/4 miles from the mouth of this Kanion making the whole distance of rough mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the Kanion on this side a little less than 35 miles and decidedly the worst piece of road on the whole journey...There are many Rattlesnakes of a large size on this valley and it is supposed they have dens in the mountains...The grass looks rich and good. A while after we camped Elder Pratt and company returned and reported that they had been about 15 miles north from here and this region is as suitable a place to put in our seeds as they have seen . . .
A council was held at the Dr. [Willard Richards] Wagon and decided to move early tomorrow to the place designated, also, to send two men back to the president and company to report progress &c. then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about 10 with potatoes this week if possible, and thus continue till the seed is secured. John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return to President Youngs company. The evening was fine and pleasant and the night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountain.
[George D. Smith, An Intimate Chronicle; The Journals of William Clayton, Signature Books in association with Smith Research Associates, Salt Lake City, 1995, http://amzn.to/william-clayton]
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